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Silver Buyers Guide

Everything you need to buy silver in New Zealand, in the order the decisions actually matter. Each section links to a fuller guide if you want to go deeper.

1. Understand what makes silver different

Silver is not simply cheaper gold. Two structural differences drive everything else.

Roughly half of silver demand is industrial, going into electronics, solar panels, medical applications and brazing alloys. That ties silver to the economic cycle in a way gold is not, and it is the main reason silver moves harder in both directions.

Silver is consumed. Much industrial silver is used in quantities too small to recover economically, so it effectively leaves the market. Gold is hoarded and almost all of it still exists.

Deeper: what silver is used for, the gold to silver ratio.

2. Plan for the bulk

This is the single thing new silver buyers underestimate, and it is worth confronting before you order rather than when a pallet arrives.

Because silver is worth a small fraction of gold per ounce, any given sum buys a great deal more physical metal. A holding that would sit in your hand as gold fills a heavy box as silver. A kilogram bar is a substantial object, and several together become a question about floor loading rather than shelf space.

Decide where silver will physically live before you buy it.

Deeper: storage.

3. Choose a format

Coins are government minted and legal tender, guaranteed for weight and purity by a national mint. They are the most recognisable silver and the easiest to sell. We carry the Canadian Maple Leaf, Austrian Philharmonic, Britannia, Australian Kangaroo, American Eagle, South African Krugerrand and the Pacific Sovereign.

Rounds are privately minted with no face value, usually cheaper per ounce than a comparable coin. Walking Liberty rounds are available in full and fractional sizes.

Bars give the most silver per dollar, from 5oz and 10oz through 500g and 1kg cast bars.

Deeper: silver coins, silver rounds, silver bars.

4. Size, and keeping the option to sell part

Larger bars cost less per ounce, because fixed production costs spread across more metal. A kilo bar is the efficient way to hold weight.

It is also one object, which cannot be sold in portions. Silver is naturally more granular than gold because the unit value is low, so this matters less here, but it still applies at the kilo end.

Deeper: unit size and partial sales.

5. Purity

Bullion silver is almost always 999 fine, meaning 999 parts silver per thousand. Some products are 9999. The fineness is struck into the face of the bar or coin.

Sterling silver at 925 is a jewellery alloy, not bullion, and is a different thing entirely.

6. Understanding the price

Silver premiums are proportionally higher than gold, and this surprises people. The cause is arithmetic rather than markup: striking, packaging and shipping a one ounce coin costs broadly the same whichever metal it is, but silver is worth far less per ounce, so that fixed cost is a much larger share of the final price.

The same effect means buying silver in larger units narrows the gap noticeably.

Watch the spread as well as the premium. The spread is the gap between a dealer's selling and buying price, and it is your real round trip cost.

Deeper: premium over spot, how spot is set.

7. Buying online or in person

Our online store takes orders at any hour, with live NZD pricing that tracks spot. Checkout locks the price for five minutes while you pay, so the figure you agreed to is the figure you are charged.

The Christchurch showroom at 124 Peterborough Street is open seven days a week, by appointment. Worth doing for a first purchase or a large one, and worth remembering that a substantial silver order is heavy to carry.

Delivery is fully insured and signature tracked nationwide.

Deeper: buying at any hour.

8. Condition and selling

Silver tones. It reacts with compounds in the air and darkens over time, particularly cast bars with their larger exposed surface. This is a surface effect and does not reduce the silver content.

Do not polish it. Polishing removes metal, leaves permanent marks, and invites questions about what else has been done to the piece. Dealers price bullion on weight and purity, so a toned bar is not a problem.

Our buyback service opens later this year. In the meantime, if you are selling, bring silver to an appointment and we will verify, weigh and quote.

Deeper: selling your bullion, record keeping.

A short checklist

Work out storage first, because of the bulk. Start with recognised products. Mix unit sizes if the holding will be large. Check the stated fineness. Compare total delivered price. Never clean it.

Frequently asked questions

Is silver a good place to start?

It has the lowest entry price of the precious metals, which is why most people begin there. The trade offs are higher volatility and considerably more physical bulk.

Why are silver premiums higher than gold?

Fixed production and shipping costs per coin are similar for both metals, but silver is worth far less per ounce, so those costs are a larger share of the price.

Should I buy silver coins or bars?

Bars give more silver per dollar. Coins are more recognisable and easier to sell in small amounts. Many buyers hold both.

What purity is silver bullion?

Normally 999 fine. Sterling at 925 is a jewellery alloy, not bullion.

Does tarnished silver lose value?

No. Toning is a surface reaction and does not affect silver content. Polishing does damage value.

Start here

We stock silver coins, rounds and bars from recognised mints and refiners, with live NZD pricing and insured tracked delivery nationwide. Browse the range or book a showroom visit. Comparing against gold? See the Gold Buyers Guide and all five metals compared.


This article is general information about buying silver and is not financial advice.

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